Process of shoe manufacture



B. B. BRODFUEHRER PROCESS OF" SHOE MANUFACTURE Nov. 9, 1926. 1,605,916

Filed Oct. 26 1923 -W 2 Warns Patented Nov. 9, 1926.

UNETED SITES 1,605,916 PATENT. OFFICE.

' BISMARCK BARON BRODFUEHRER, OF CINCINNATI-OHIO, ASSIGNOR TO THE LOUIS G.

FREEMAN COMPANY, OF CINCINNATI, OHIO, A CORPORATION OF OHIO.

PROCESS OF SHOE MANUFACTURE.

-Application filed October 28, 1923. Serial No. 670,865.

My present invention relates to the manufacture'of boots and shoes and is directed to improve the making, fitting, lasting and finishing of shoes having openwork parts or sections in the quarter, vamp or other portion of the upper materials. In the manufacture ofv shoes,'particularly ladies low cut shoes, pumps, slippers, and the like, wherein a portionior portions of the upper-are cut out, for ornamentation, lightness .orv design, it has been necessary heretofore tocut outthese parts of the upper materials while the. same were flat. During the lasting operation, thatpart of the shoe adjacent to the out out portions, would be distorted during -lasting. As the lasting operation is relied upon to secure the fitting of the upper materials and it is essential that the lasting operation take out the surplus stretch in the leather, it will be appreciated that a considerable variation in the stretching, durin lasting, adjacent the cut out portions, woul result; In fact the lasting would so distort and change the shape of the entire shoe upper materials, where cut out portions are employed, that it has been extremely diflicult to make such shoes, unless the lining was left uncut, and then it was a. difficult hand operation to cut out the lining. Also the lining, if of canvas or a difi'erent grade of leather than the upper, would stretch unevenly.

My invention is directed to obviate the difiiculties heretofore experienced in this class of work, and to insure the lasting of shoes with the cut out portions, both throu h upper andlining, as easily, readily, expe itiously and speedily, without danger of distorting or changing the same, as was formerly done in so id vamp and quarter shoe structures.

My invention contemplates the reinforcing of the shoe upper materials adjacent to the cut out portion, thus enabling the lasting 0 eration to be performed without difliculty a on the sides of the shoe where the cut out ortions occur. Such reinforcements may e applied inside the lining, between the lining and upper, or outside of the shoe, and can remain within the shoe upper and on the last until the soling, healing and finishing operations are all completed. With the final removal of the last from the shoe, thereinforcement can be'removed In carrying out myinvention I may employ a layer of canvas, paper, composition or other suitable material as the reinforcing,

and extend downwardly a less distance than the side of the upper to the insole. Furthermore this reinforcement may be applied either internally or externally of the'shoe, and in either event can remain in the shoe until it is completed, finished and treed, and the last finally removed.

I preferably apply the reinforcement layer or layers about the openings in the cut out portions 'on the interior of the shoe upper prior to assembling same on the last, and then leave these reinforcementswithin the shoe through the various processes of shoe manufacture. A further advantage is secured in this way, as the reinforcement will prevent the inking stains, finishing colors and dressings, from working through the openings in the cut out portions-to the inte- Further features, important advantages,-

and details will be hereinafter more fully pointed out and claimed.

Referring to the drawings, illustrating a preferred embodiment of the invention,

Fig. 1 is a sidevieW of an upper showing a typical cut out portion in the quarters and vamp;

Fig. 2 1s a View partly in cross-section illustrating my method of applying reinforc- Fig. 3 is a cross-sectional view on the line 33 of Fig. 2; V

Fig. 4 is a cross-sectional view showing the upper, reinforcements, insole and outsole assembled on the last, illustrating typical McKay shoe manufacture and Fig. 5 is a side-view of the completed shoe with the reinforcements removed.

and advantage in connection with any of the standard methods of shoe manufacture, such as welt shoes and turn shoes, wherever openwork or cut out portions of the upper, vamp, quarters, foxings or the like, are employed. In the particular shoe shown for illustrative purposes in the drawings, the upper materials comprise the vamp 1, quarters 2,-lining 3, andshow a typical design of openwork or cutout portions, consisting in the cut sections 5, 6, 7, and 8 of each quarter,

leaving the resulting straps or sections 9, 10, 11, 12 and 13. It is that portion of the shoe quarters adjacent the cut out sections 5, 6, 7 and 8, and the corresponding straps which is distorted during lasting and which distortion I prevent by my novel invention of applying a reinforcing at this art 'of the shoe.

As herein shown I apply a ayer consisting forcing layer and unite it, preferably by any e adhesive, simply covering the cut suitab out portions and a substantial area of the adjacnt upper, this being indicated at the dotted line 16, Fig. 2.

With the reinforcing material thus applied, the upper is then assembled on a last 21, see Fig. 4. The insole 20 is applied, the shoe lasted, and the outsole 22 afiixed, and the stitching operation completed. As explained, my process is equally applicable to welt, turn, McKay or otherstandard shoe manufacturing processes. Fig. 4 illustrating its adaptability to a McKay shoe construc-' tion, showing the shoe in lasted position and just prior to removal of the last and attaching the stitching.

- The layers 15 preserve and protect the cut out 'portion of the upper, holding the remaining strap-like members in a proper alinement and position, keeping them smooth, and preventing wrinkling, and thus preserving the design of the shoe accurately throughout. No special care during the lasta ing need be taken, and the resulting shoe is completed,the inking, finishing stains, etc.,

. being prevented from working into the lining through the open sections, and after the removalyof the last the reinforcing pieces 15 ing shoes having cut out portions in the upper, which consists in reinforcing the shoe u pers adjacent said out out portions, assem' bling the reinforced upper materials on a last with the reinforcing material between the upper and the last, lasting, completing the shoe and thereupon removing the rein- I forcement.

3. The improved process of manufactur- -ing shoes,-which consists in applying reinforcing material to a predetermined part of the shoe upper to prevent distortion of the shoe upper during lasting, and assembling .the reinforced upper on a last with the re inforcing material between the .upper andthe last, lasting and completing theshoe, and thereupon removing the reinforcing niaterial. r 4. The improved process of manufacturing shoes, which consists in applying reinforcing material to a predetermined part of the shoe upper interior, by adhesive, said material and adhesive being of sufficient strength to prevent distortion of the shoe upper to which it is applied during the lastcan be instantly and readily taken out. I

believe thatmy method of thus preserving, by suitable reinforcements, the out out por ing and subsequent shoe manufacturing processes and then removing the reenforcing material.

5. The improved process of making boots and shoes having cut out portions in the upper, which consists in applying to the out. out portions of the upper reinforcin material, leaving said material so applied to the upper during the processes of shoe manufacture and so positioned as to be between the upper and last during the lasting operation, and removing said material from the shoe after the completion of manufacturing the same.

6. The process of making shoes having out out upper portions, which consists in applying a removable reinforcing layer to the insides of the shoe upper, so positioned and arranged as to prevent distortion of the cut out portion during the processes ofshoe manufacture, said reinforcing material be. ing attached to the cut out portion at a. plurality. of points, assembling, lasting and completing the shoe and thereafter removing the reinforcing from theinside of the completed shoe.

7..The improved process of manufacturing shoes, which consists in cutting out a decorative design on a predetermined portion of the upper, applying reenforcing material to the interior of the upper around the cut out design, securing the reenforcing material to the upper, lasting the shoe while maintaining the reenforcing material in position, and then completing the manufacture of the shoe.

8. The improved process of manufacturing shoes which have decorative designs out out on a predetermined portion of the upper, which consists in first performing the decorative cutting out action associating with such upper a lining, and reenforcing-material, lasting the shoe while maintaining the remaining reenforcing material in position, and then completing the manufacture of the shoe.

9. The improved process of manufacturing boots and shoes, having .openwork cut out portions apt to be distorted during lasting, including the step of applying to the upper, reinforcing material of substantially greater area-and extent than the shoe portion apt to be distorted, maintaining said material in position during lasting, and relying upon the reinforcing material to prevent distortion of the cut out portion during sal-id lasting operation. V

In testimony whereof, I have signed my name to this specification.

BISMARCK BARON BRODFUEHRER. 

